Choquequirao Trek

[Carla Barrientos]

The Golden Cradle: this is my next stop during this Peruvian adventure. Choquequirao is another Incan Citadel also called Machu Picchu’s sister. According to scientists, it was the last Incan refugee, when they had to escape from Spanish Conquerors in 1536. Sitting on the top of the Apurimac Canyon, it remained protected from the conquerors and from the passing of the centuries, thanks to the geography and vegetation in the area! It was first mentioned by French researchers in 1900 but formally discovered by Hiram Bingham in 1909 (2 years before Machu Picchu). Conquerors never caught a glance of these ruins, as there are no records of it in their texts.

There are 2 options for visiting Choquequirao: 4 days to go there and back to Cusco, and 10 days to go there and then to Machu Picchu and then back to Cusco. As I’ve already gone to Machu Picchu trekking the Inca Trail 2 days ago, this time I’ll only go to Choquequirao.

I won’t take my pc with me because we won´t have time to recharge its batteries. This post will be a no-dates text describing the entire trip!

The first day we took the touristic bus at the hotel at 6 am, heading to San Pedro de Cachorra, the trekking start point. On the way we stopped for a while to learn about the Tarawasi archeological remains. Some kilometers ahead we crossed a bridge over the Apurimac River and arrived in Cachora at around 10:15 am. We were served an energetic snack while watched the porters load the horses with our stuff. It was 11:10 am when we started a 2-hours trek going up through a bit-inclined path, to get to Capulioc Pass, where lunch was served! The warm air brings condors that watch us walk by. They seem to be inviting us to observe the snow-capped Salkantay in the distance. After walking for 3 more hours, at 5:20 pm, we arrived at the Chaquisca “oasis”, where we had dinner and camped for the first night. We walked all day long, above 2.000 m.a.s.l and down there in the canyon floor, we could see the Apurimac river surrounding the mountain we were exploring! There’s a hostel near the campsite where we can buy “sugar-cane juice”, made right there in an artisanal mill. The night was full of stars and a lot cold!

The second day started at 6:00 am with a nutritious breakfast and 1 hour trek, going down and down, to Playa Rosalina (Rosalina Beach) where we crossed the Apurimac River on a hanging bridge. The view from there, if you have the guts, is worth taking a picture! Having crossed the river, we start our way up to Santa Rosa to have lunch at noon, at 2115 masl. It’s the hardest part of the whole trek! The view of the canyon and the waterfalls is a blessing! A complete picture of the day includes snow-capped mountains, greenery, a sea of clouds at some points, birds, flowers, waterfalls… Can you imagine such place? Wonderful! Going up for 3 more hours, an easier climb this time, we got to Maranpata from where we had a greater view of Choquequirao. The ruins are close by… And it’s there, at 3.000 masl, that we camped for the second night. In Maranpata there are some sort-of stores where we could buy basic typical food. We arrived there around 3 pm and had the rest of the afternoon to rest, take pictures and blend! Colder night…

We had the earliest wake-up call of the entire trek on the third day! Thank God, because we arrived at the Complex at the exact time the sun was rising over the site! It was a 2-hours hike up from Maranpata campsite to Choquequirao and at 6 am we were already there! We had enough time to take pictures and admire this nature’s master-piece! Then, for 3 hours, we had the guided visit to the whole complex (the part that is already ready for visitation!) There are 9 architectural stone groups, hundreds of agricultural terraces, irrigation systems and houses. It’s 10 times bigger than Machu Picchu and is placed bordering a precipice: remember it’s the Apurimac Canyon, at 3035 masl. It was for sure an elite place and some say that Emperor Topa Inca built it to rival his father Pachacutec’s Machu Picchu. It’s as mysterious as Machu Picchu! An example of it, is the so called Waterfall Temple that was built in front of a set of cascades that go down the steep mountain side. The guide also explained that according to some drawings found in the complex, it seems Chachapoyas were taken there from the amazon to help build the citadel. We had lunch at the complex, in a designated place, and headed back to Maranpata. At 5 pm we got to the campsite again. After dinner, we seated by a bonfire to cheer up! Night was cool and relaxing, thanks to the Pisco bottle I had taken with me!

The forth day is the return to Chiquisca. Walking the same path again gives the opportunity of taking a deeper look at the orchid and savage flower species, birds and vegetation! As the sun shone all the way, I took better pictures this time! From Maranpata, to Santa Rosa where we had the last lunch in group, it took us 2 hours. And then to Playa Rosalina again where we re-crossed the hanging bridge! Time to have fun!!! 3 more hours and we got to Chiquisca, where our tents for the last camping were ready. Food was served hot and reassuring! Glad to have fulfilled this other wish, I went to my tent and slept all night through!

Early again, at around 7 am, we had the last breakfast and headed to San Pedro de Cachora. After a 6-hours hike, stopping here and there to catch the breath, we got to the start point again and had time to rest for a while. At 3 pm we boarded the tour bus that brought us back to Cusco. It’s useless to say at this point, that I need a bath and a real bed! It’s 11:30 pm and I’ve already taken a relaxing shower, had a magnificent diner and ma ready to dive into my soft pillows. Sweet dreams…